Day 73: Kennedy Meadows Magic

(Mile 1015 to Sonora Pass, 1018.5 = 3.5 miles)

Gumby, hichin' a ride.

It was a nero today, and one of our best. 

We awoke on the ridge with the sun shining and the breeze blowing having had a restful, star-filled night of cowboy camping.  We were just as happy to wake up on the ridge as we were to sleep there.  We overslept all alarms, but were still at Sonora Pass waiting for a hitch by 8 a.m.  Gumby had flown down the pass, and I trotted along behind her, chatting away with Patch of Patch and Lampshade.  We had only just met them, but I liked him instantly.  They moved on at the pass, and we prettied ourselves for a ride.  Which is to say that we ran fingers through our hair, straightened up our clothes, put on a fresh layer of that men's deoderant I snagged at Tuolumne, and practiced our sweetest most innocent hitching smiles.  Everyone for the first hour was going the opposite direction.  And the first three coming our way passed by without a look.  The fourth vehicle motioned that they were full and asked where we were headed.  "Canada."  They pulled over.  Robin was a ballroom dancing instructor who reminded us of another cousin, Nicole.  Pretty, stylish, graceful, outgoing, and funny.  Tony was a native, passionate and knowledgeable about the area and the trail.  They were headed to Kennedy Meadows Resort to fish.  They moved their gear and made room.  It was a perfect hitch match.

Hugs and a "Thank you!" to Steve Shunk
for surprising me with a gift certificate for the
resort! Love birding? This man is your guide.

When we arrived, we immediately ate breakfast and paid our $5 for the slow, country internet.  We were happy to do it -- some connection is better than none.  And when we picked up our packages, we were both met with surprises.  Gumby had gotten a Gumby mascot from my mom (she loves it!), and I had a gift certificate for the resort!  A good friend of mine, Steve, is in the Sierras doing bird surveys this summer, and, apparently, he had been through the area already, for he had swung in during early June and bought me a gift certificate.  It was waiting with my package (which, in addition to food, contained a card from Jazzercise; a letter from my writer friend, Andy; and a letter and quotes from fellow ranger, Matt, who's been in Germany.  As well as socks and extra Snickers and chocolate.)  It was a great resupply.

And the resupply got better when a section hiker (someone doing the PCT part by part), the Doctor, who was headed off trail offered to take and mail our bear canisters home!  The resort doesn't do outgoing packages, and canisters were no longer required.  We were going to carry ours an extra 4 or 5 days to Echo Lake before shipping.  But they are gone now!  Goodbye to an extra 3 pounds!

The afternoon went by with showers, laundry, chores, and hanging out with other PCT hikers.  Kennedy Meadows Resort is a wonderful place -- clean and rustic with all of the basic amenities -- topped off with friendly staff, a wraparound porch, and a saloon.  It is the perfect place (and pace) for a resupply.

Gumby, Coldpepper, and me at Saloon. We had a grand
old time. Thanks, Coldpepper!

The evening was filled with dinner at the restaurant and drinks at the saloon with the locals, the staff, the visitors, and fellow hikers.  Many thanks go to Coldpepper, a local contractor, who joined us for dinner and drinks and delightful conversation.  He renamed me first Little Bit and then Spitfire by the end of the night.  I don't know if I'll take it, but I can hardly argue.  I guess I had one hand on the hip telling animated stories to two guys when he, with Gumby's help, came up with that one.  Coldpepper will be a local to remember.  A spitfire, himself, he understood our "quest" but was appalled that we needed a permit to do it.  Coldpepper is the kind of man who walks where he wants to walk, damn it.  He was still talking about it this morning as he wished us all well.  Many thanks for everything, Coldpepper!

The (northern) Kennedy Meadows Resort. A wonderful, rustic
place for a meal, a drink, or a full vacation.

 We owe one more thanks for trail magic to two resort visitors who let us stay in their spare cabin room.  I am embarrassed to say I missed both of their names in the chaos of the night (Josh and ...).  The two were grade school friends now neighbors who were taking a man-cation to go on a pack and fishing trip.  We talked awhile at the saloon about the trail, gear, backpacking, work, and life.  I liked them both immediately.  And am jealous of their pack trip and luxurious gear!

Kennedy Meadows Resort was a fantastic stop.  The perfect mix of resort-goers, locals, and hikers.  Just big enough to have what you need and small enough to still be pretty and relaxing.  Well worth a visit if you ever go by Sonora Pass.  And if you do, keep an eye out for Coldpepper.  Tell him Spitfire and Gumby say hello and thanks.