Monday, June 18, 2012

Day 42: Presence

(586 to 607.5 =  21.5 miles)

I love the smell of sage. It reminds me of both Central
Oregon and my mate.
Today I spent most of the day thinking about what I was thinking about.  I decided it would be a good day to work on being present.  So, I watched my thoughts awhile and then tried my stand-by meditation to see if I could clear them all out.  I had mixed results.
 
The meditation is a sensory meditation I learned as a part of the independent study naturalist program, Kamana.  First, you give yourself "owl eyes" -- expanding your vision to the peripherals.  Then, you focus on your "deer ears" (or coyote ears) -- paying attention to all of the different sounds and noticing where they are coming from.  Next is "dog nose" -- breathing in the scents of the woods.  And finally, you finish with "raccoon skin" -- feeling the temperature, texture, and pressure sensations on your skin. 

One of my favorite sounds is that
of the wind in the pines. It brings
me back to my childhood in Michigan.
Perfect for the PCT, right?  Well, it was.  Minus the fact that I heard background music all day long.  In my head.  And not just any tunes; no, it was a default to Jazzercise numbers -- but I could switch to the "America's Best Idea" soundtrack.  And that was it.  All.  Day.  Long.  When I tried to turn on my mp3 player, the battery was dead.  It's half past hiker midnight, and I still hear it.  I am getting a little concerned.

Other than the music problem, it was a good day.  Met up with a couple from Canada that I camped with at Kickoff -- Sag Hag and Robo Knee.  A wonderful couple around their 60's.  And tonight, we are camped with Shutterburst.  Lots of bear tracks on the trail, and neither he nor we were excited about camping alone.  A welcome camping companion -- he told us stories and generally cracked us up before bed.  He may be even more bearanoid than I!  (He'd been saving up his pee for marking in case he had to stay alone.  :)  But it's been a long one.  Time to rest.  Hopefully, it'll clear my head of songs.  Or I might really be going crazy.

We zipped by the 600-mile marker today!

Friday, June 15, 2012

Day 41: Going through Heck ... Together!


This bug was escaping ants - they are all over its legs.
What IS this thing?
(568 to 586 = 18 miles)

My mom had a quote for a canoe trip she and I took after I graduated from college.  It was just the two of us on a 19-day paddle in the Boundary Waters.  19 days of food and gear and a 75-pound aluminum Michicraft.  Portages were a challenge to say the least.  She would say something about them along the lines of, "If you think you are going through hell, don't stop."  (It is a real quote ... but I am without service to look it up.)  I thought of my mom this morning as we battled another day of winds.
Bear scat!

Now, don't get me wrong, I said before that I love wind, and I will stand by that.  But being out in this sort of wind for days is mentally and physically exhausting.  It has been a knock-you-down-and-blow-you-off-the-ridge kind of wind.  I grapevined up most of the ridge this morning and walked backwards for other parts.  (Jazzercise came in handy once again!)  Coming around a corner, I'd have to spread my arms to my wingspan, plunge in with my poles, bend my knees to a 45, and lean over until my chest was parallel to the ground.  I bumped into June and Flatlander after the worst of it; June crawled through part of it -- Flatlander found her on her hands and knees and then joined her.  She couldn't get back to standing without him.

About an hour into the hike, I thought of my mom's quote while walking past the shelter of junipers.  I wanted to stop to escape the wind for even 15 minutes.  But what do you do after 15 minutes?  Head out into the wind again, just slightly more miserable after a break.  So, I did as my mom said and just didn't stop.  It was one if those times where you could hardly believe that an event was actually happening.  Could it be so relentlessly windy?  So windy that it was difficult to even catch a breath?  I hadn't had that sensation since I had skydived.  And the answer was, yes and yes, it indeed could.

Our last day in the windmills for awhile!
And then it let up a bit, and/or we had more cover, and the day got a little easier.  I bumped into Taka and hiked with him for the first time for about an hour.  (Taka, June, and Flatlander have teamed up.  Taka and June are from Japan.  Flatlander was traveling with Waterboy and Ned the Fed, but those two left the trail a couple of weeks ago.)  It was a pleasure.  I hadn't really had the chance to talk to Taka because his English is a little rough and someone else always chimes in first.  (And my Japanese is nonexistent!)  But, we were able to chat for an hour, and I've come to enjoy his company and his sense of humor. 

Must have been fed before ...
Later in the day, I bumped into nine other hikers at the water stop.  Sparrow and Barracuda were among them, and, again, I had a chance to chat.  Barracuda is 7 years old, and Sparrow is his mom.  And they are ahead of us!  What a trooper.  I enjoyed them both.  Sparrow is interesting and Barracuda is extremely bright and well-spoken.  His favorite thing on the trail so far?  Rattlesnakes.  Namely, his mom scaring off a rattlesnake by throwing a rock at it.  He's allowed to do that when he turns 35.

Beyond the horse trough is a wild turkey!
This morning was pretty rough.  And although I was mostly hiking that ridge alone, I did find comfort in knowing that every other hiker out there was doing the same thing.  One foot in front of the other and lean.  Or crawl if you were June or Barracuda.

Thursday, June 14, 2012

Day 40: On the Trail Again


(Tehachapi, 558.5 to 568 = 9.5 miles)

Thanks for letting us camp at the airport, Tehachapi!
Well, we finally escaped Tehachapi at 2 p.m. today.  I only say escaped because we almost had to stay another day.  There was a big mix-up at the pharmacy, and it was looking like what I needed would not be available until tomorrow.  (I could not believe my luck!)  Until we figured out there was a mix-up.  And by then, my doctor's office was on lunch.  We waited, and eventually everything was straightened out.  I don't know if I've ever spent as much time at a Kmart as I have these past two days.  

PCT interpretive panel.
On the bright side, we did, however, meet a local who waited for us at the pharmacy, treated us to Starbucks, and dropped us off at the trail.  Thanks, Brandon!  Everything seems to come full circle eventually on the PCT.

There are windmills everywhere in this section. And wind.
The hike was another blustery one; and so, tonight, we're tucked in a juniper ... with giant ants and giant translucent bugs that I have never seen the likes of before.  The hum of Highway 58 will be lulling us to sleep.  It's always a bit of an off day, the day you return to trail, and today was no exception.  I am as scattered as this blog.  But this is a nine day stretch (our longest) -- there will be plenty of time to settle in.  And we'll probably be glad we had so much time off in Tehachapi.  I will certainly never forget that town.  (Fantastic German bakery if you ever pass through -- thanks, Dan!)  Full of trail magic just when you need it.
Free-range cows choose to hike the PCT.

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Day 39: "I Was So Mad"


Home sweet home for the night! I have never stayed at an airport ...
(Zero!)

That was the title of one of my favorite children's books.  A Little Critter book in which everything that happens to the main character is a closed door.  Each page ends with, "I was so mad."  A bad day kind of book that, as an adult, helps you poke a little fun at yourself when you're having a bad day.  And today,  for the first time, I had a bad day.  (Well, relatively speaking.  A Bacon Bit version of a bad day -- there are, of course, still bunny rabbits and rainbows on my bad days.)  So, in the style of this book, here was my day:

The day started with an early (but loving) phone call that woke me up enough to get my mind working on the tasks for the day, which put an end to sleeping in.  I was so mad.

I was nearly late for the free hot breakfast.  Almost everything was gone and cold.  I was so mad.

We went to the post office, and my shoes were not in.  They shipped via UPS and were trapped in Mojave.  I am in Tehachapi.  It turns out that UPS will not ship to the post office in Tehachapi.  I was so mad.

These trail angels left us apples (!), shade, and water on the trail ...
and then drove us all over in town! Thank you, thank you!
I had my doctor call a prescription into the pharmacy for me.  The pharmacy was out of the medicine.  I was so mad.

I went to Kmart for stove fuel.  They did not carry it.  AutoZone was out.  While I was at AutoZone, the store who does have the fuel, it closed.  I missed it by 5 minutes.  I was so mad.

I ended the day without shoes, fuel, and my prescription.  I finally conceded that we would need to stay an extra day in Tehachapi.  But, I wasn't so mad.  It had gotten pretty ridiculous, and trail magic came our way.  A woman leaving the post office stopped her van as she drove by and gave us two pbj's and two bananas.  My shoes will ship to Kennedy Meadows instead.  My doctor's receptionist was extremely helpful.  A trail angel drove us all over town to look for fuel.  Another trail angel set us up to camp at the airport.  Yet another trail angel met us at the airport and got us all set up -- and then he returned late tonight to bring me a bottle of stove fuel.  Kindergarten Cop texted me and is in Mojave.  Our delay has allowed him to catch up -- we'll see him tomorrow afternoon.  And then a family we hiked with over a week ago located me through my blog and has offered their assistance. 

After awhile, I started to get the feeling that today went just as it should.  I was supposed to have a series of hurdles to put me right here.  Drinking tea, eating ramen, blogging, and feeling incredibly grateful for all of those who lent a hand.  I am so glad.

Saturday, June 9, 2012

Day 38: Good Morning!


(Mile 440 to Tehachapi, 558.5 = 18.5 miles)

Morning moon over camp.
I will start by saying that I love early mornings just as much as I hate waking up.  And I really do not like waking up.  Not at 6:30 a.m. for work and certainly not at 5:00 a.m. to hop out of a toasty Ruby into the all too brisk air for a hike.  I am, by nature, a night owl.  And I wake up not like a fluffy bunny rabbit, but more like the rabid wolverine.  Okay, I exaggerate.  But not by much -- I establish no-talking-and-definitely-no-questions rules with all of my roommates for the first hour of the day.

This little bird was singing his heart out this morning.

However.  I love to be awake and about during the early hours of the morning.  There is almost a magic to it.  A quiet contentment and a subtle sense of expectancy fills the air.  And sunrises are most certainly magical.  So, morning is my favorite time to hike.  We hike all day -- we have no choice -- but it is all of the hours before noon that I love most. 

Morning photo shoot with a most unusual-looking lizard. Species, anyone?
By noon, the magic of morning has worn off; we have been moving for about six hours and our bodies are in need of a longer break.  It also gets warmer, and the birds sing a little less.  The light is at its highest and brightest, dulling the colors a bit.  Afternoon is probably the hardest part of the day.  The end isn't near enough to be excited about, and the body is getting tired enough to demand a little attention.  Somehow our minds seem a little more tired in the afternoon, too.  Early evening gets cooler, the colors get richer once again, the critters come back out, and there is the anticipation of reaching camp.  Early evening isn't as good as morning, but it is certainly closer.

On my way to breakfast.
All hours of the day are required.  There is no skipping the moment I have to wake up any more than there is skipping the long afternoon.  It cannot be just one long morning.  In hiking as in life, we take our favorites right along with our not-so-favorites.  And, if we're good, we learn to mix the two to even things up a bit.  Which is why my favorite breakfast in bed is a Snickers bar, and Jazzercise tunes are reserved for after noon.

This is a trail register. Open it up, and sign in!
And so, I wake up at 5:00 a.m. every morning.  And each day I am rewarded.

Trail magic!

Friday, June 8, 2012

Day 37: Blowing through the Mojave

(Hikertown, 418 to 440 = 22 miles)

Hikertown, USA.
Every day on the PCT is an emotional roller coaster.  Unbelievable highs and bottom of the barrel lows.  So, it is hard to definitively say often times that a day was wonderful or awful because most days are all of the above.  Today was one of those days.

Headed out to the Mojave on a windy morn.
 We started off from Hikertown with a rich sunrise and dramatic clouds over the mountains in the distance.  It was cold and windy, but I could not have been happier.  Not only were we missing the heat of the desert, but the sky and landscape were as gorgeous as could be.  This morning, I was wildly in love with the unruly Mojave.  This stretched into mid-morning as I saw my first above and below ground aqueducts.  I was like a kid who had just discovered bathtubs after having only had showers.  It was hard to believe such a thing existed.  Yes, in magazines and books, but not in real life.  It was a wonderful morning.

Storm brewing over the aqueduct.
Okay, this made us a little worried.
 Mid-morning to afternoon grew long as our "hike" today was mostly a road walk.  This irritated my heels and hips and the backs of my knees.  I lost my sunglasses sometime between last night and this morning (of all times!), and the sun was painfully bright on the glittering sand.  To make matters worse, the wind blew so hard and was so cold that I had to wear my warm hat rather than my sun hat.  And then I rounded a corner, and found that a herd of sheep were trotting towards me.  Soon, they were all around me.  I pished at them, and they stared back.  (Yes, pishing has become my universal animal attention-getting sound.  I confess, I even use it on Gumby.  It works.)  I was thrilled.  I basked in the glory of being surrounded by sheep until the herder came around.  And then I basked in the glory of love from his herding dogs.  And then they were gone.  Just like that.

Underground aqueduct! Who knew?!
The afternoon was tough and only got tougher.  The wind picked up and added big gusts.  The trail was only loosely marked because of windmill construction throughout the area.  That, coupled with the unremarkable terrain, made it difficult to tell if we were ever on the actual PCT -- a continual source of worry and frustration for me.  Add some trouble lighting my stove and exhaustion from staying up too late to blog and email, and it was a rough afternoon.

All bundled up for the Mojave.
Sustained winds at 30 mph, gusts
between 50 and 60.
The afternoon and early evening remained difficult, but the force of the wind was so ridiculous at times that it was comical.  Add a few good bird spottings, the beauty of the windmills, and a nice campsite, and the end of the day turned out okay.  Aside from spilling milk on Ruby, my sleeping bag.  Neither of us are happy about that.

Sheep! What a treat!

So, overall, a good day.  The skies and the sheep are what I'll remember.  And I am sure we'll tell stories about how cold and blasted windy the Mojave was.  I'll forget about my sunglasses and spilled milk like it was, well, spilled milk.  

Sheep scat. One for the collection.
Gumby in a sea of windmills.

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Day 36: Hikertown or Bust!


(Mile 496 to 518, Hikertown = 22 miles)

500 down.

I am in the hiker lounge at Hikertown.  Trail angels have made their property into an old Western-looking town especially for PCT hikers.  I'll grab a few photos in the morning, but it is a pretty neat place.  I've had a shower and done a little sink laundry.  I am sitting at a table, and the room has outlets.  Who could ask for anything more?

Handstands for 500.

Today was a 22-mile day, but relatively easy.  We had 12 in by 1 pm.  And then we stopped for lunch (we cooked dinner) at a water stop.  The day was going well, so we took a little afternoon nap.  Which lasted an hour longer than we had intended.  Dang!  We knew we had 22 to Hikertown, and we wanted to stay, but we didn't get back on the trail until 4:40 pm.  Gumby had her groove on, so she lead.  I was wrapped up in the books-on-tape of "The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo," so I was a perfect follower.  And then, before we knew it, a highway was in sight.  We were at Hikertown by 8 pm.  A very fast 10 miles for us.  You always feel like it is a bit of a fluke when things go so well, but it is happening consistently now.  I think we may actually be getting faster and stronger.  Phew!

Funny enough, this area had the look and feel of an African safari.
But, just a short one tonight.  It is late and tomorrow will be a long day as we tackle the Mojave, waterless stretches, and THE Aqueduct.

Oh, did I mention that we've passed the 500 mile mark?!
It was a beautiful sky night. Clouds and perhaps rain were blowing in.

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Day 35: Simply Complicated: Accomplishing Ordinary Tasks on the PCT


(Mile 478.6 to 496.2, Ridge Top Jct. = 17.6 miles)

The stuff of my nightmares!
One of the surprising things about the PCT is how little free time you have.  This is, in part, because so much of a day is spent walking.  If you are a tortoise like Gumby and I, you spend a block of between 12 to 14 hours on the move.  Broken up, of course, with rest stops.  It is hard to do much but think during this time.  The remainder of your time is spent accomplishing daily maintenance tasks that take an unusually long time.  Simple essentials like cooking, cleaning, drinking, communicating, and going to the bathroom are not quite so straightforward out here.  Wondering how we do these things?  Here are our methods:

Cooking.  Of the tasks, this one is relatively straightforward.  Except that you might go down in history as the one who burned down half of California.  See, a number of us, including myself, use homemade alcohol stoves.  They are lightweight, easy to find fuel for, maintenance free, and -- depending on the design -- fairly fuel efficient.  The problem is that you have to pour fuel each time, and the stoves are highly susceptible to wind.  They can be a bit of a fire hazard.  You have to both find and create a wind-free area.  Then you have to clear it of flammables.  Prep your water, prep your food, fill your fuel, fill your preheat, light, and then watch that thing like a hawk to make sure nothing goes wrong.  I have to admit, I breathe a sigh of relief everytime CJ, my stove, runs out of fuel.  Another crisis averted.  You don't actually "cook" your food, either.  You boil the water and then let it sit long enough that the dehydrated rehydrates.  If it's nighttime, I like to stretch while my food soaks.  Then you eat.  Immediately upon finishing, you pour a bit of water into your pot.  If you're good, you'll clean your pot straightaway -- the longer it sits, the crustier it gets, and the more difficult it becomes to clean.  Which you do by rubbing your finger on the sides of the pot, drinking the grey water, and repeating.  Pack it all up and dinner is complete.

.2 miles to water. Down a steep ravine, over a tree, and under a tree ...
Cleaning.  There are two major things you are concerned with cleaning.  Yourself and your clothes.  Real showers and laundry (if you're lucky) happen in town.  On trail, they're, well, modified.  Gumby and I use wet wipes to clean ourselves at night.  I use one or two for my feet and legs depending on how dusty the day was and one for my upper body.  It leaves a bit of a sticky film, bit it's better than nothing.  Occasionally, I'll put a few drops of Dr. Bronner's soap in a baggie, add water, and find a secluded place for a little sponge bath.  But this takes time, and we don't have much to spare.  Laundry can be done this way, too, but, if it is not an essential, laundry is usually just overlooked.  We do  try to clean our socks and underwear as often as possible.  But, you really need a faucet to get a good rinse and justify the use of water.  So, the essentials are rinsed every couple of days; the rest waits for town.  You wouldn't believe how excited we get about faucets, laundry, and showers.

Drinking.  Water is one of the highest priorities of the trip so far.  Most of us carry a paper or electronic copy of "the Water Report."  I, of course, have both.  The Water Report is a spreadsheet compiled by AsABat that lists the mileage, the name, the last-known status and date, and directions to just about every water source in Southern California.  You schedule your entire day around water sources.  I can tell you right now that it is 10 miles to the next water.  We'll carry 3 liters.  We cooked dinner at the last water source so that we didn't have to carry that liter.  One liter weighs 2 pounds.  You don't want too much, and you definitely don't want too little.  A water source is a faucet if you're lucky; other times it is a spring, a concrete tank, a creek, a horse trough, or a cesspool.  You get less picky as you go.  Water must (well, should) be treated before drinking.  We use Aquamira; others use pumps, UV lights, drip filters, or other chemicals.  It takes 5 minutes for the Aquamira chemicals to react and then another 15 before the water is ready.  Turning a knob and having drinkable water pour out is a luxury.

Communicating.  With the outside world, that is.  There are a number of challenges to talking to all of you.  Many of us carry phones, but with the terrain and remoteness of locations, we can go days without cell or internet service.  It is not rare to find a group of hikers stopped in the middle of the trail because someone picked up service.  If you need to communicate you'll drop everything, anywhere.  While we write or talk, we may be getting eaten alive by bugs, roasting in the sun, or standing in the most uncomfortable position you can imagine because we're afraid we may lose you if we move.  And, when you do have service, you have to make sure you have enough battery power to take advantage of it.  Gumby and I carry PowerMonkey solar chargers.  Hers is bigger, mine is lighter.  My adapter is also on the fritz, so it isn't exactly working right now.  This is a definite source of frustration.  We all have to accept that communication is sporadic and totally unpredictable.  

Nearing the full moon.
Going to the bathroom.  This is probably a little more complicated for the women than the men.  We carry a bandana cut into fourths to wipe when going number one.  This isn't too complicated, but sometimes finding a private spot can be.  My lower legs bare scars from battle with brush to get far enough away so as to not be visible.  Number two requires a bit of planning.  You need a flat-ish spot far enough from the trail -- a view is a nice touch.  Then you have to dig your cathole and set out your supplies; take care of your business and do the appropriate cleaning.  It takes a little while.  We love flushing toilets and use them as often as possible.

It's funny.  We come out here partly for the simplicity of it all.  But then the simple is made so complicated.  Where does this leave us?  It definitely makes us more appreciative of the everyday conveniences of modern America.  I also think it is somehow as Colin Fletcher says in his introduction to "The Complete Walker" -- that the simplicity of backpacking is a corrective.  It offers perspective.  The stress and chaos of our over-stimulated, complicated, work-a-day world seems pretty straightforward when we consider that we have accessible food, plentiful running water for cleaning and drinking, unlimited outlets, and flushable toilets.