Friday, August 17, 2012

Day 103: Marathons, Marbles, Moo


(Mile 1610 to 1636.5 = 26.5 miles)

We herded cows today. Get along!

Just over a marathon of a day.  And it feels like it, too!  Today was some fairly rugged Sierras-like terrain with we're-almost-to-town miles.  Needless to say, it is late, and we are beat.  And we still have 25 for tomorrow.  However!  I checked the map and the last six are ROAD miles!  These will kill the feet, but will be fast miles.  I am not going to tell Gumby and hope that she doesn't check the maps.  It's a good surprise.

THE Marble Mountains.

A few good things about today:  I finally saw the Marble Mountains!  A mini-Sierras of Northern California.  Worth a visit.  We are cowboy camped on a windy ridge!  And to bed before 11 PM.  Hooray!  AND...my phone camera came back to life today.  Who knows for how long.  But long enough to catch a few shots of the cows we chased down the trail this afternoon.  :)  It was a riot.  And they all had bells.  It sounded like an old giant wind chime.  And we felt like cattle dogs. 

Dusk from our beds on a windy ridge. Heavenly. Actually it was! Perseids meteor shower!

But this is all for tonight.  I am beat, and there is a long day ahead before town.  Three days to Oregon!



Thursday, August 16, 2012

Day 101 & 102: Loving/Hating Electronics


(Mile 1532 to 1587 = 25 miles; Mile 1587 to 1610 = 23 miles)

Good morning!
I am not the biggest fan of electronic gizmos ... or most technologies in general for that matter.  Oh, I know that they have their place.  I could not be writing and posting as I am if were not for this "smartphone."  But then, I won't be posting any photos anytime soon either. 

This morning, after an incident free day and night, I tapped my camera app only to find that nothing happened.  Again.  Nothing.  Power down, power up, and tap.  Nothing.  Instagram!  Cannot connect to camera.  Again.  Nothing.  Somehow, my phone camera has stopped working.  So I cannot upload photos to my blog.  Humph.

Trail magic!
Fortunately, for the trip purposes, my Canon camera is working.  For now.  The lens was jammed open only a week ago.  By some miracle, when I went to try one last time before I shipped it off, it turned on!  And now it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't.  This is not good.  But this is better than my phone.  So, I can take photos, but they are trapped on my camera until I get to a real computer.  This does not happen very often.

And, as for the phone, the camera is only one of a number of things driving me crazy lately.  Recently, I got what seems to be a mandatory operating system upgrade.  Or was it a downgrade?  Quickword now freezes and crashes every five minutes.  This WAS how I typed my blogs.  Gmail is now messier and harder to navigate.  I dislike the new font.  Is this also the cause of my camera issues?  Who knows.  On top of it all, my super awesome Droid RAZR Max battery is awful.  Gumby's iPhone holds a noticeably better charge.  I can barely keep my phone alive with my PowerMonkey.

And the PowerMonkey is its own kind of mess.  My adapter spoiled after three weeks.  I just got the replacement a week ago.  (We've been out for over three months.). It would work sometimes if the sun was out and you stood on one foot with your left ear to the ground and did not look at it.  Fortunately, I asked for a new battery, too, because it died just before the adapter and new battery arrived.  And now the connection between the panel and battery is getting finicky. 

Hiking Gumby.
No, I do not recommend a PowerMonkey solar charger to you.  Nor do I recommend a Droid Razr Max.  Or my little Canon camera...although I do recommend Canons in general.  My SPOT, however, is behaving like a champ.  As is my Timex watch.  My mp3 player just came off of a time-out. 

The kicker on these electronics, besides the fact that we depend on them working, is that it is so difficult to fix the problems from here!  There is not a store or a post office in sight.  My receipts and warranties are hundreds of miles from here.  My shipping address changes every five to seven days.  ...

Today I found myself totaling up the weight of my electronics. 

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Day 100: 100 Days Of ...

(Mile 1537 to 1562 = 25 miles)

100 days of what? 

Walking. 

Eating dehydrated food. 

Drinking from creeks, troughs, springs, lakes, rivers, and random containers. 

Sleeping on the ground. 

Living outside. 

Rarely staying in the same place twice. 

Relying on the kindness of strangers.

Wearing the same seven articles of clothing.

Solar charging.

Waking up at 5 AM and going to bed by 9 PM.

Blogging.

Searching for service.

Studying HalfMile's maps.

Eating meals on the ground.

Digging catholes.

Peeing in the brush.

Having filthy hands.

Checking in with "the babysitter" -- our SPOTs.

Greeting other thru-hikers like old friends.

Getting closer to Canada.

Getting farther from Mexico.

Admiring my 2012 PCT Thru-Hiker bandana.

Not burning down California.

Not working for pay.

Homelessness.

Sunsets.

Meals well-earned.

Conversations with the self.

Cousin companionship.

Looking forward to town food.

Eating Snickers.

Hauling around our lives on our back.

Photographs.

Bugs.

Birds.

Sunshine.

Anticipation.

Exhaustion.

Happiness.

Beauty.

And last, but not least, California.

We hit Oregon in 6 days.  We hit Canada in about 50.  The countdown (to Oregon, at least) is on.  The next 50 days will be all of the above, except California ... and burning it down.  We cannot wait to finally move on and do all if the above in another state!


Sunrise over Porcupine Lake.
Trail magic Tuesday!

Monday, August 13, 2012

Day 99: Dear Abbey

(Mile 1512 to 1537, Porcupine Lake = 25 miles)

Not too long ago, a future thru-hiker wrote to me and asked an interesting question.  She is planning to solo hike the trail.  She has a steady significant other and gathered that I did, too.  How are we managing the relationship while I'm on trail?  She pointed out that there is nothing on this in the usual PCT trip planning information.  She's right as far as I can tell.  I am by no means an expert on the subject, and every relationship is different, but I thought I'd write about it in case there are others wondering the same thing.

Mostly, we have managed through his involvement with my trip.  In the prep stages, he helped me with the three things I dreaded most:  selecting electronics, packing out five months of food, and writing my leave of absence request.  He researched and  narrowed down my options for me when it came to electronics, was my packing partner for the twenty hours it took to do food, and was my chief editor and soundboard for my leave request.  Not to mention, he also simply put up with me as I planned and worried over every detail of the trip.

The only thing missing is a partner to share this with! Thankfully, I have Gumby!
My mate was (and is) also paramount when it came to logistics.  As you can imagine, there is much to be done at home while you are out here.  We opened a joint checking account with my trip money, and he is taking care of my finances while I am away.  Most bills are on autopay, but this also gives him funds to buy replacement gear, more food, and cover shipping costs.  All of my mail is forwarded to him while I am gone.  He is also my package person, my emergency contact, and my care package and trail angel coordinator.  I know, I owe him

The packages have proven to keep us most closely connected.  There is always something to add or change, and we are constantly in contact about it.  Packages are a highlight of the trip for all hikers who use this method and, for me, even more so because on the top of nearly every box is a letter with a gourmet chocolate bar underneath it.  I treasure these letters.  They are anything but the ho-hum ordinary, and through them, I have gotten to know a different side of a man I've loved. 

Communication, I think, is the most difficult part of maintaining a relationship.  Real letters are wonderful.  Phone calls are nice as are emails and texts, but service is sporadic at best and nonexistent for much of the Sierras.  I recommend getting a phone card with hundreds of minutes -- one of the only ways we could make contact in the Sierras was by setting up dates and times where I would call by pay phone.  At the end of each call, we'd set up the next phone date.  We'd talk business first, personal second.  If possible, we'd email business and then gloss over it to make sure we got enough time to actually talk.  We've sort of stuck to the phone date method, and we mostly talk when I am in town.  It is less frustrating than trying to catch each other spontaneously. 

So, my mate and I have made it work through his involvement.  That said, I think it's important to support your main support person, too.  I have a back-up shipper and additional emergency contacts.  I have other friends helping me with my blog, rounding up resupply items, and assisting with errands I can't complete from here.  I try to send letters or postcards as often as possible.  It is hard, being this far away for this long, but I try to be supportive from here.  This trip may be my life, but everyone else has their own going on, too.

And, in all, it has been working.  We have both said that we feel closer now than before, not despite the time and distance, but really, because of it.  It isn't always easy, but relationships never are.  Five months aren't long in the grand scheme of things.  Though they certainly feel like it right now!

Thursday, August 9, 2012

Day 97 & 98: Trail Angels: Super-Ultra-Deluxe Edition


(Mile 1482 to 1506.5, Castle Crags = 24.5 miles; 1506.5 to 1512, Sulphur Creek = 5.5 miles)

Shasta keeps getting bigger!

We made 24.5 miles by 5:45 PM yesterday.  Despite the heat (nearly 100!) and the sore feet.  What was the hurry?  Town, of course.  And trail magic from the super-ultra-deluxe trail angels, Mike and Jackie Niemeyer.

1500 miles. Heck, yeah!
Mike and Jackie are friends of mine from Oregon.  A mix of friends, mentors, and your really cool aunt and uncle.  They were in Tahoe for a family trip and took a few extra days to trail angel us. 

We have our own support team!
The magic began before we even saw them.  A pink flamingo sign stood in the trail at Castle Crags.  A birthday party or the Niemeyers, I thought.  "Gumby and Bacon Bit Support Team," it announced.  Of course!  But!  When we got to I5 there was no sign of anyone.  We were early.  But the Niemeyers are early people.  I called Mike.  "I am in the ER.  With a Wilderness EMT." I asked if he was lying.  My W-EMT friend in the ER with a W-EMT?  I didn't buy it for a second.  But, it was true.  Mike had run his keys through his hand carrying our stuff to the hotel room!  Jackie picked us up, and we fetched Mike from the hospital.

The spread at the hotel.
After that, I think things went a little more as planned.  We had showers, went to dinner, and explored our resupply packages.  In addition to the usual, I had new inserts, a new Z-Lite, a chip with books for my mp3 player, a new sleeping mat -- signed and decorated by friends!, chips galore, and a bone.  Yes, the Niemeyers brought me a bone.  Not flowers.  :)

Our resupply goods.

They got us breakfast in the morning, and then we were off!  To the resort for massages!  While Jackie took care of our laundry!  I have never been so spoiled.  It was ridiculous and wonderful.  Pack up, new water bottles, a picnic lunch, and we were back at the trailhead fully loaded.  Did I mention that Mike dug my nose ring out of the hotel sink after a devastating loss?  Can you imagine?!  What a man.  Those two were unbelievable.  We are the most spoiled hikers on the PCT today.  We are glowing.  Thank you, Niemeyers!

A bone, courtesy of the Niemeyers. Perfect.
We did not hike far, but we did make it out of town.  Tomorrow, things return to normal.  Mostly.  Plus a flamingo on my pack, courtesy of the super-ultra-deluxe trail angels, Mike and Jackie Niemeyer.  Thanks for everything, you two.

Our support team!

He really was injured, after all.

Handstands for 1500+ and our A-1 trail angels!

My new sleeping mat. Filled with  quotes and notes from friends.  That's Bacon Bit lounging in the center. I LOVE IT!

Day 96: A Hiking We Will Go


(Mile 1454 to mile 1482, over McCloud River = 28 miles!)

It is late, and we are camped out right next to the trail on what appears to be an abandoned road.  There is poison oak EVERYWHERE.  And everywhere is sloped.  This is as good as it gets.  We were relieved to find this at 9 pm tonight.  We are tired, but we are happy to have covered our most miles yet.  Twenty-eight big ones!  We might not have gone so far, but we are eager to get to Castle Crags and catch the Niemeyers, and the terrain simply wouldn't allow us to stop sooner.  But, as Gumby says, "We always find a spot."  You just have to have faith.

Today was hot and humid.  The trail was in a bit better condition, and there were a few huge doug-firs, a couple of yew groves, and a nice ridge walk, but this mostly is not my favorite part of the Trail.  Problem Bear says it gets better after Castle Crags.  Here is hoping.  I AM excited to see the Marbles. 

Other than that ... it is getting a little mentally tough again.  We're not going crazy, we just miss home and the little comforts of life.  I do think Oregon and Washington will fly by.  Oregon with friends and sights I cannot wait to share with Gumby, and Washington with the pure exhilaration of nearly finishing.  We are not ready to be off trail, it just seems like we've been on for a loooong time.  Tomorrow, we hit 1500!  And then we're border-bound!  But now we need to rest before another big day.  Night!

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Day 95: While I Was Out ...

(1429, Rock Creek to 1454, Mushroom Rock = 25 miles)

Gumby, Piper's Mom, and me! Thanks for everything!
Today was a pretty good day, considering.  Considering it was hot and hilly and this patch of forest looks a bit like a war zone, as does the trail.  Logged and full of brush and debris.  And the heat and volcanic dust has brought back the blisters.  Mine are minor.  Gumby's little toe is nearly avulsed.  It is admittedly gory.  But!  We are camped on a gorgeous ridge with a full(?) moon rising.  And we got our 25 miles in for the day.  A fairly normal day.  We'll take it! 

I've been a bit behind with writing, so I thought I'd catch up with some highlights.  Here goes!

Leaving Belden was awful.  13 miles uphill in the heat of the day.  Not the prettiest hike and full of poison oak.  And then there was a false top.  The real one was another three or four miles off.  Brutal.  A beautiful ridge-top camping spot was our reward.  And we missed the Belden fire (which closed the trail) by a few days.

Close encounters with the cow kind. Yikes!
Crossing California Hwy 36, just after the halfway point, we had spectacular trail magic from Piper's Mom!  I recognized her name from her responses in the PCT list-serve.  The magic was good when we arrived, but then Piper's Mom herself arrived to restock!  We were mutually thrilled to meet each other.  She'd been following my blog.  We three gladly had our photos taken together.  What a treat.  Thanks for taking care of us!

We pulled around 27 miles that same day and found ourselves at Drakesbad Ranch that evening.  Just in time for dinner.  We were joined by Siddhartha, Threshold, and Washout.  The Ranch is hiker-friendly on the sly and lets us eat dinner and breakfast after their regular guests and enjoy hot showers and a dip in their springs-heated pool.  In a meadows, under a nearly full moon, with steam rising off the water, it was heavenly.  We stayed in until our fingers pruned.

Sunset over Shasta.
Despite a late start the next day for the breakfast buffet, we managed 20 miles.  Enough to situate us for a stop at Old Station the following day to wait out the heat in order to tackle nearly 30 miles of heat and exposure along Hat Creek Rim.

Old Station was about as good as it gets for a convenience store.  The restaurant was closed, but the store owner was more than accommodating.  (He was from Wisconsin, of course!)  We spent 5 hours snacking and taking care of business from the previous days' unfortunate events.  Around 5 PM, we hit the Rim. 

THE pretty patch for the day!
We hiked the Hat Creek Rim until just after 1 AM.  It was long, and we were exhausted.  I faced three of my fears that night:  the dark, the bogeyman, and cows.  The cows and bogeyman made worse by the dark.  But the peace of the moon and silence of the night over a desert landscape prevailed.  That night, the earth took us in, and we slept like babies on the desert floor.  We both said later that it felt like the ground was hugging us that night.  Just the comfort we needed after all of our unfortunate events.

Slowly, everything has been returning to a kind of normal.  The past week seems a little surreal.  We are looking forward to wrapping up this section and moving on.  So far, we're on the right track.


Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Day 94: Just an Ordinary Day. Finally!

(1374 to 1396, Hat Creek Rim = 22 miles; 1396 to 1423, Burney Falls State Park = 27 miles; 1423 to 1429 = 6 miles)

We love signs like this. And we love finally being closer to Canada than Mexico!
We are tucked up on a bridge above Rock Creek.  Patch, Lampshade, Damsel, Lucy (the dog), Last on the Bus, and Power Nap are all here, too.  We all swam, then ate, and then mostly decided this bridge was the best flat spot around.  So we are lined up along it.  Multiple speed bumps for the bears lurking around here. 

New shoes! Oh happy day.
Gumby and I spent most of the day at Burney Falls State Park relaxing, eating, and doing our resupply.  It was the most normal day we have had in nearly a week.  We managed to sleep nearly eleven hours.  As I had said before, we were exhausted.  One of the great, and perhaps normalizing, aspects of hanging out at the park was talking to visitors.  Quite a few knew of the PCT and had a million questions.  I slipped into ranger mode and got a kick out of talking to them.  Therapy for me!  We also ran into a small herd of PCT hikers which, again, normalized the day.

Burney Falls. Impressive. I love the water coming out between the layers of rock.
It was a relief to forget about the events of the week and just feel like myself again.  I didn't realize how much weight I was carrying around until it was lifted.  So, here is hoping the trip just continues to get lighter and lighter.  1500 miles is nearing as is the state of Oregon.  There is plenty to look forward to.  Night!

You were right, Dan! This IS bear country!

Last on the Bus, Lampshade, and Patch all cozy on the bridge. What a great night.

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Day 90 to 93: A Series of Unfortunate Events

(1327 to 1354, Drakesbad = 27 miles; 1354 to 1374, Hat Creek = 20 miles; 1374 to 1396, Hat Creek Rim = 22 miles; 1396 to 1423, Burney Falls State Park = 27 miles)

I haven't post anything lately, and unlike the Sierras, this time it is not because we have no reception.  No, I have had neither the time nor the energy to write much lately.  I also debated whether or not I should.  And if I did, what I would say.  We have had a series of unfortunate events taint our trip these past few days.  But Gumby says it is part of my Trail experience, and that's what this blog is about, so I should write about it.  With that, here goes. . . .  (My apologies if it's a bit jumbled.  I've written, deleted, and rewritten it too many times.  And now I am just ready to put it behind me.)

We have, in the words of Kindergarten Cop, been "stalked."  A fellow thru-hiker has made us uneasy through both his words and his actions as well as by his refusal to take no for an answer.  Everything culminated the night of the 90th, but continued on through the next afternoon, and we have been dealing with it since.

We and everyone around us have been on alert all week. Our families and close friends have a detailed report of the events and have proven to have the organization and grit of a small cavalry.  The hikers with us when everything happened and the next day know the details as well, and news travels fast on trail.  Kindergarten Cop confronted this person as soon as he heard.  We'll take more action as necessary.  Hopefully, this will just pass.  Meanwhile, we are making plans on what to do if it does not.

We are exhausted both physically and mentally.  We've had a couple of nights with five hours of restless sleep or less.  We are both uneasy about sleeping.  We are still trying to kick our sinus infections, and our feet are killing us.  We are trying to make time to rest up and get back to our usual schedule.  The two of us are as close and as strong as ever despite everything.  We will handle this as we have every other obstacle the Trail brings forth.  I'll keep you all posted as we move on.

We are trying to have fun despite everything!

Day 89: The Third Mantra


(Mile 1303.5 to 1327 = 23.5 miles)

:)
So, yesterday was a bit of a hard day emotionally, and on the 13 mile uphill hike out of Belden, I found myself repeating my two trail mantras to myself.  Okay, so there are probably more than two, because in addition to the two I was thinking of, there is, of course, "You're a thru-hiker; it's your job; just do it."

Cows on the trail. Yes, I am still secretly afraid of them. I scampered away after this shot!
The first mantra I was thinking of came from my friend and co-worker (actually the person who is filling in for me while I'm out and about!), Dylan.  I had received unpleasant (though not life threatening) medical news on day 2 of my trip.  When I told Dylan, he said, quite simply, "Walk it off, Dor."  I laughed.  Walk it off.  Like a coach to his/her athlete.  "I will."  And so I have been.  I've been walking off everything.  Gumby and I repeat it to each other all of the time.  Tired?  Walk it off.  Blisters?  Walk 'em off.  Stomach ache?  Walk it off.  Headache, sinus infection?  Walk it off.  Too much town food?  Walk it off.  Want to quit?  Walk it off.  Upset?  Walk it off.  Have something to cry about?  Go for it, and then walk it off.  It's a little tough love and a little funny.  So, yesterday, I told myself to walk it off.

Lassen Peak? Should be there in a day!
The second mantra comes from another co-worker and a mentor of sorts.  Karen and I used to help lead a state-wide training for interpreters in the department.  Karen did a "showtime" session which was, in part, about putting on your game face when you put on your uniform.  The idea was that visitors wanted a pleasant, present park ranger experience.  No matter what you personally may be going through, the visitors deserve your best.  "Nobody cares if your dog just died, your boyfriend broke up with you, and you couldn't find your left boot this morning," she'd say.  "When you decided to put on that uniform and come to work, you decided to put all of that behind you."  I call it the "nobody cares" speech.  I always looked forward to that session of the training.  It was a good reminder no matter how experienced you were.  And so I say on trail, "The Trail doesn't care."  It was Richard Bach I think who wrote about that ... something along the lines of, "Life does not require you to be happy, sad, successful, fair, etc. ... It does, however, require you to live with the consequences."  The same can be said of the Trail.  Yesterday, I reminded myself of this, too.

Ha! We didn't go.
And then I thought for a moment about Dan.  That was trail magic, at just the right time.  And so was the woman in the gray SUV who brought us freshies, cookies, and water.  And what about all of the trail angels?  And then I remembered a line I gave Gumby when she was grumbling that the next town probably wouldn't have her new favorite chips -- Flamin' Hot Lays.  I said, "You've gotta have faith."  And what do you know?  She found her chips.  You've gotta have faith.  It's the lighter, softer mantra, but just as important.  No, the Trail doesn't care.  Yes, you have to just walk it off.  But if you have faith in the greater world and your place in it, the right things often come at just the right time.  This is the faith of my Muir Pass reflections.  Trusting in something larger than ourselves that we don't necessarily have a big hand in. 

And so, I've found my third mantra, and one I need to work the most on.  You've gotta have faith.

Heck, yes!
. . . . . . . .

P.S.  We hit halfway just this evening!  We spent the afternoon recapping our first 1325 miles.  Halfway, and happy, healthy, and ready for the next 1325.  Oregon and Washington, here we come.

Handstands for halfway!

Day 87 & 88: Belden, Braatens, and Blogs, Oh Yay!


(Mile 1265 to Belden, 1289.5 = 24.5 miles, 1289.5 to 1303.5 = 14 miles)

Dan and me at Belden Town. Dan's a southbound section hiker who'd read this blog! I was thrilled to meet him.

Well, we hit Belden a day early, rolling in right around 5:30 pm.  We tackled the long downhill with Siddhartha and U-Haul -- both if whom we had met at the Red Moose Inn.  We all but ran down the big hill.  And rewarded ourselves with drinks and dinner at the Belden Town Resort.  Kindergarten Cop was taking off with Problem Bear just as we left.  Enough time for a quick catch-up.  And then we called the Braatens, local trail angels, and they took us all in for the night.  Knees, Threshold, Washout (?), Siddhartha, U-Haul, Gumby, and me. 

Gumby and U-Haul on a fancy-shmancy bridge. Silver Falls?
The Braatens run "Little Haven" and have an entire house for hikers.  A house!  Their daughter said that's part of why they got the place.  Close to the Trail and a space for hikers.  Yes, really.  It was wonderful.  A shower, a bed, cold cereal snack before bed, and pancakes and coffee in the morning.  Oh, and a lift to the PO and back to Belden Town.  Huge thanks to Laurie and Brenda Braaten for such a low-key, relaxing stay!  We could not have asked for a more perfect stop.

Botanist friends, what IS this gorgeous bloom?!
We spent the first half of the day doing errands -- PO, sorting resupply items, doing laundry, eating lunch.  While I was sitting at the resort, struggling a bit with a hard morning emotionally, a hiker arrived and stopped in front of me.  I looked up, and he greeted me.  He asked my name.  I replied, and he grinned.  He thought so; he'd been following the blog!  We talked a few minutes, and then he went in to the restaurant, saying that if I was still around, perhaps we could get a photo. Of course!  What Dan didn't know was that I was secretly on the verge of tears when he arrived.  (Nothing big; I think I am just emotional this week!)  And he was actually a bit of trail magic for me at that moment.  A smiling face full of warmth and good energy.  As soon as my food was ready, I found Dan and joined him for lunch.  He is a southbound section hiker from Washington, so he had all sorts of good information and advice.  It was quite a treat.  And brought me to another realization this afternoon.  Which I think I'll try to write about tomorrow.  But it is LATE!  And so I'm off to bed.

Holy buckets! Check out this huge cone!

Today's thanks go to Dan and the Braatens of Belden.  You angels always pop up at just the right moment.

1300 miles. Almost halfway!


Thursday, August 2, 2012

Day 86: Looking Up

(Mile 1238.5 to 1265, Big Creek Rd = 26.5 miles!)

The Feather River. The most water we'd seen in awhile.
We ate lunch here, but, frankly, didn't have the energy to swim.
Well, today was a better day than yesterday.  And not because of the terrain.  We had a five-mile stretch of pure uphill in addition to the usual climbs and drops.  But I barely noticed.  And right now, we are as happy as can be, despite the fact that we know we're going to be soaked in the morning.  Here's how the day went.

We had a somewhat restless sleep.  Again, it was painfully quiet.  I was awoken by a deer crashing and snorting through the woods and again by a little critter rustling around underneath my tent.  The critter was ongoing for awhile.  But we were up and out by 6:15 a.m.  I couldn't tell you much about the morning past that.  I decided to take what I thought was a cold medicine tablet this morning ... it did strike me that it kept slipping through my fingers as I tried to grab it -- "Maybe I'm not supposed to take this," I thought briefly, and disregarded the thought as ridiculous and popped it in my mouth.  By 7 a.m., I knew I had made a mistake.  It was a generic benedryl that I had taken.  The exhaustion hit me like a stone wall.  I could barely keep my eyes open despite the fact that I was hiking.  I deployed all of the tired driving tricks.  I tried to talk to Gumby, I chewed gum, I ate snacks, I drank water ... none of it worked.  I finally put my ear buds in and listened to my "Girl With the Dragon Tattoo" series, and this kept me awake enough to stop me from tripping over everything.  The medicine didn't really wear off until lunch.  It was awful.  I will NEVER make that mistake again!

Blurry, but a five minute interview with a very slender buck!
After lunch, I listened again until my batteries died, and then I was inspired to think.  About all of the things I am going to tackle in my personal time when I return.  For whatever reason, I found this wildly exciting and totally consuming.  We were roasting between the heat and the climb, but my head was making plans for the house and the tools I will need for my new projects.  For the books I plan to read and the movies I need to watch to accompany them.  I have two independent study projects all lined out.  I also had about twenty other ideas -- everything from learning to can and sew to getting serious about country line dancing -- but a handful of house projects and two study projects are good for now.  I'll jot the others down in the margins.  I've decided that with two months to go, it is no longer too soon to start making return plans.

Evidence of a small forest fire!
All of this got me through until dinner.  Which was in the perfect wind-free spot and included cheesecake.  Can't go wrong there.  After dinner we headed down the trail, bypassing a handful of spectacular ridge sites -- too early to stop.  Little did we know that we wouldn't find anything for MILES.  That was about 6:30.  We were still walking at 8:30.  Sigh.

And that's when magic hit.  A box of snacks for hikers at a road crossing!  Apples, bananas, and candy.  As we were picking our fruit, an SUV drove by.  The woman looked out.  And then slammed on her breaks and pulled over.  And then drove off.  And then turned around and drove by.  And turned around again with her window down.  Did we need anything?  Anything at all?  Just a flat place to sleep.  Right ahead, you'll find a couple.  A thanks, and she drove off.  We found a spot not far from there and pitched our tents.  After about twenty minutes, a vehicle pulled over and someone got out.  To pee?  The person came closer and closer ... it was the woman with the SUV!  She had a dozen homemade cookies, two peaches, peeled and sliced carrots, lettuce, and two liters of water for us!  Unbelievable.  She chatted a few minutes and sent us to bed.

Treats from the trail angel.  Delicious looking, eh?  The peaches were amazing.
And now we are tucked in our tents.  Bellies full of oatmeal chocolate chip cookies.  Everything came together.  We had our longest day, 26.5 miles and our best trail magic yet.  Thank you, thank you!  And with that, good night.

Day 85: When It Rains It Pours

(Mile 1218.5 to 1238.5, past Onion Valley = 20 miles)

Gumby and Mother Goose during one of the sun breaks.
We heard thunder all day long.
Most of today was what I would consider a bad day.  It only took 84 to have a bad trail one.  Pretty good, I'd say.

Part of the reason for the rough day is three nights of bad sleep.  The first night was a town night, and we stayed up too late and got up too early.  The second night was a town night, too, but we went to bed early -- our fellow campers stayed up late.  And then last night was just a little hellish. 

We set up camp in a saddle, cowboy-style.  I had a hard time falling asleep because it was ridiculously quiet, and I could hear every snapping of a twig, every scampering of a critter.  And then there were the mosquitoes,  buzzing hungrily in my ears.  I put on my headnet, but it blocked my view and was hot.  Too hot to fully cover up and too hot for the bugs to go to bed. 

"How does the sky look?"
"Dark and ominous," said Gumby ...
I slept fitfully for awhile, awoken by buzzing, snapping, heat, and what looked like headlamps flashing.  At 12:30 a.m., I awoke to truck lights in my face.  We were semi-close to a dirt road, and there must have been a break in the trees at just the right angle.  Headlights.  Brights.  The truck stopped.  I layed in the brights, eyes closed.  Headlights.  And the truck finally went back to creeping down the road.  Now, I was fully awake again.  Flashing lights, dozing ... thunder?  I sat up and watched the sky.  Sure enough, there was thunder and lightning on the ridge.  I shouted over to Gumby a few times and had her watch.  I suggested we set up our tents, pronto.  The storm grew louder, and the wind picked up as we struggled to undo one camping style and set up the other.  It was chaotic and took an eternity.  When I went to set my NeoAir in the tent, I found it partially deflated.  Somewhere in the shuffle, it must have snagged and ripped.  Sigh.  I asked Gumby for her flattened sit pad and arranged hers and mine the best I could.  Of course, all tucked in, I couldn't help but listen for the storm and hope that a big gust didn't tear my TarpTent to pieces.  I devised a backup plan and continued listening.  I might have fallen asleep after 3 a.m. 

Morning came early and with a start.  Gumby spotted another storm front, and we raced it to get our tents down and packed.  I was throwing the last items in as the hail was starting.  We walked in the rain the first half of the day.  Thunder constantly rumbling in the distance.  The storm never hit hard, but it never left, either.  It rained, blew, and thundered on and off all day.  It is only now becoming quiet.

This tiger lily was a moment of reprieve on a rough day.
So three bad nights sleep, storms, and Gumby and I are coming down with sinus infections.  Kwaisers (our side of the family) do not get colds, they get nasty sinus infections.  We are tired, our sinuses hurt, our throats are dry, our ears ache, and some of our snot is green.  (Lots of it is black with dirt!)  We are trying to fight them, but it's hard to tell how we're doing.  We blame it on the I-80 rest stop.  I've also had a headache for the past week -- my neck is out from sleeping funny ... this pinches nerves and gives me headaches.  Oh, how I'd love to bump into my chiropractor on trail!

And then I have a new pain in my left foot over my fourth metatarsal.  Inflamed bug bite?  Or did I step funny one too many times?

Throw all of this together with upward climbs over so-so landscapes, a little personal turmoil that even Jazzercise music couldn't shake, and it was the makings for my least good day yet.  But.  The night is calming, we're getting to bed reasonably early, and we spent a little time with Mother Goose today.  Not a terrible day in the end, but not one I care to repeat.  Here's to a better one tomorrow!

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Day 84: Tin Cans and Strings of the PCT


(Sierra City, 1197.5 to 1218.5 + 1.5 on road = 22.5 miles)

I was thinking on our morning hike, having just left the company of fellow PCT'ers and been caught up on the Trail's latest and greatest, about how we all keep up with each other. 

Notes under rocks are read by all. Notes about water are especially appreciated!
In this great electronic and digital age, we do use a bit of technology to keep up with our fellow hikers.  Now, I am not the best to speak on this since I am by nature a technophobe or a Luddite, but I do have a smartphone and do finally know how to text, check email, etc.  And I do have the cell numbers of some of the hikers I rarely travel with, but like to catch up with.  We text where we are, share trail updates, and fill each other in on mutual hiker friends.  I've exchanged email addresses with a handful and given my real name out to friends in Facebook.  I've checked a few fellow hikers' blogs.  But.  Cell and internet service are spotty on the trail, so technology cannot be heavily relied upon.

A pile of rocks, a "cairn," says, "Go this way!"
When technology is sure to fail, we resort to more primitive methods.  We leave each other group messages on the trail by way of stacked rocks (cairns), lines made by dragged poles, arrows of rocks and sticks, blocked paths, and shorthand messages written in sticks, rocks, and sand.  You learn to look for these things and decipher them.  You silently thank whoever took the time to send the message.  When it is a particular person we want, we leave notes on the trail, usually stuffed under a rock.  We all read all of these messages, even if they are not addressed to us.  When I left Kindergarten Cop notes, he had scores of hikers asking if he got his messages.  We both like to snoop and to be helpful. 

A fantastic arrow, pointing the way to water!
But, one of the fastest ways news travels is by word of mouth.  It is ridiculous how fast news travels up and down the trail.  Maverick texted Gumby the other day and tried to say he was ahead of us.  But she called his bull and told him he had slept in the last pass's parking lot the night before, so that was impossible.  And then she told him not to repeat his last town's antics in Tahoe.  He was flabbergasted.  We'd been filled info and just that afternoon about his location and a few days before about his last town stop.  Last night, over dinner, we all told stories of fellow hikers and were filled in on the blips we'd heard.  Town stops and water stops are where the updates are usually exchanged.  And this is the news that travels fastest. 


I imagine news on the Trail is much like things used to be before internet and before telephones.  News travels with the travelers.  It moves forward and backward.  Faster than the written word and, until the cell companies take over every mountaintop, faster even than our high-speed technology.  ...  She says as she types on her smartphone and hopes she gets service sometime tomorrow so that she can pass the message on.