Day 62: Alive and Well!

This is going to be extremely out of order, but I just wanted everyone to know that we are alive and well and loving the Sierras!

There is very little to no cell reception in this grand range, and we opted for a resupply strategy that is keeping us in the heart of the Sierras for seventeen days.  I am filthy, but as happy as can be. 

As you may know, my good friend from Iowa,Tara Reiter-Marolf, is posting my blogs for me.  I send her Word documents and photos, and she puts it all together.  I know, I owe her!  So, she'll be posting the past days over as long as she needs.  I just unloaded all of my text and way too many photos.  I feel pretty bad about it!

So, for now, know that we are marching along, pausing for headstands on the mountain passes.  It is a hard journey, but a grand time.

Day 51: Oh, This Is Why We Slow Down

(Mile 731 to 749 = 18 miles)

View over what I believe is Mono Lake.

Today was a much higher mileage day than expected.  By 11 a.m., we had covered a mere 5 miles.  Given, we had taken breaks for layering down, second breakfast in stacks of boulders, and water from the prettiest little meadow you ever did see.  It looked like a lawn, dotted with Shooting Stars and Monkeyflowers; a babbling creek landscaped along the far edge.  I am sure if we stayed longer, fairies would have appeared from behind the willows.   

Shooting stars covered this magical meadow.

But, breaks aside, the Sierras just sort of kicked our butts.  It was a slow, hot climb most of the day, working our way up to 11,000 feet.  I don't know if it was the altitude, the toasty Sierra sun, lactic acid, or just pure exhaustion, but it was a hard hike.  When we were no farther than 5 miles just an hour before noon, I didn't think we'd hit more than 15 for the day. 

Hello, Sierras! Constant beauty.

They say you slow down 5 to 8 miles a day in the Sierras.  After today, I can see why.  We managed 18, but without a big pass or so much as a glimpse of snow.  (I wondered many times what the class of 2011 went through as they tackled these miles.  I am extremely grateful for our weather and have tremendous respect for those who braved this terrain last year.  Ahem, Erin/Wired.)  I don't think we'll keep this pace.  Be it the snow, the altitude, or the fairies sprinkling stay-here-and-admire-the-view dust on us -- we'll slow down.  But, for now, we'll take it all!

And, with that, I must sleep.  Another big day awaits us.

Day 50: The Benjamin Button Effect

(Mile 712.5 to 731 = 18.5 miles)

Our first view of the morning Sierras. I wanted to run and  
frolic. But my pack was too heavy.

I realized today after watching Kindergarten Cop eat a monster bag of Crunch Berries for second breakfast, slowly build a ring of blue and red around his mouth as he went, that he was becoming more and more like Barracuda, the seven year old hiking the trail -- Barracuda always has a ring around his mouth and a smudge on his nose.  Yesterday, Kindergarten Cop had a ring of Oreos; at lunch, it was a ring of hot cocoa.  But I can't say much.  While KC was making his Oreo mustache, I was greedily eating my dinner, an Oreo balanced on each knee, waiting for me to finish.  When one fell on the ground, I dusted it off and gobbled it down.  It seems we are all growing younger the longer we are on the trail.

These heart-shaped flowers lit up the landscape.

We grow younger in our eating habits, as well in the way we eat.  And sleep.  And drink.  And take care of all of those bodily needs.  When we are hungry, we eat what we want, when we want.  This means oatmeal and jerky and Snickers for second breakfast, which is no more than two hours later than first breakfast.  We sleep when we are tired.  This sometimes means sitting up and napping against our packs -- we're like toddlers and can sleep anywhere through anything.  We drink when we are thirsty, stop for water when we need it, and sometimes carry one pound of tasty drink mixes with us -- Kool-Aid for kids.  When we need to go number one or two, we drop our packs, head for the bushes, and take care of our business.  We are on no schedule for anything.  There is no mandated break time and even no societal rules about when and where.  We do what we need to do when we need to do it.

I am in love with the Sierras. Happy is how I look and that is all. 

We grow younger in our movements.  Many of us are in or near the best shape of our lives.  When that pack comes off, we leap, skip, and run.  And even when it's on, we're rock-hopping, balancing on logs, scrambling over fallen trees, and scampering down trails.  I was coming up the hill with my water bottles last night, and Kindergarten Cop said I looked like a six year old bringing home treasures from the creek to show Mom.  I felt like one.

We grow younger in our thoughts.  Today, I saw my first marmot.  I was absolutely thrilled.  I watched it, called to it, talked to it, and wouldn't shut up about it.  I am still excited about it and am eager to meet my next.  It seems that our child-like fascination with the natural world slowly returns out here.

Cliff Swallows danced in the air while the guys (the Canadians)
ran around trying to catch fish in the river.

And, like a kid, we have started to care less and less about what people think and more and more about comfort and function.  I realized this when I only had my hiking clothes to wear to the fire department meeting in Kennedy Meadows that I was invited to tag-along for.  I was slightly embarrassed about my oversized floppy hat and sunglasses, my navy shorts and black shirt, my neon trail runners, and especially my plastic neon beaded heart bracelet that I got for my birthday.  This is my everyday trail-wear.  Practical.  But ridiculous at a fire meeting. 

Something about this just makes you want to shout and sing
songs from "The Sound of Music."

And so it seems that we are all Benjamin Buttons, growing younger on the trail as the days go by.  Or at least becoming more in tune with the youthful innocence we once enjoyed.  Oh, it's no "Lord of the Flies;" we maintain most of our adult politeness and sense of right and wrong.  But we do seem to be a bit lighter and more relaxed, a little quicker to smile and enjoy the moment. 

There is a line from a poem I think of often when I am out here and grinning wildly to myself about some new discovery; I couldn't tell you the author or split the lines right, but it goes, "Now that I am in love with a place that does not care how I look or if I am happy, happy is how I look, and that is all."  That is the face of a PCT thru-hiker.  And any person who has just been completely absorbed in the natural rhythms of the world.  Happy; and that is all.  And that is me in the Sierras.

Day 49: Back In the Saddle Again

(Kennedy Meadows, 702.5 to 712.5 = 10 miles)

Handstands for Kennedy Meadows General Store, 
the Sierras, and 700+ miles.

Literally, we are tucked up on a saddle tonight just around the beginning of the Haiwee Trail.  Just 10 miles today, but a pleasant 10 miles. 

Well, kind of.  I never like the first day of hiking after a town stop.  I sort of don't like town stops in general.  It's a funny thing -- I look forward to them most of the way, and then halfway through, I don't like them.  There are too many chores and too little time.  My feet swell like crazy, and my legs feel worse than when I was on trail.  I never relax enough or get everything done.  And then I eat too much and get food hangovers.  Yes, they are real.  And, yes, they are much like a regular hangover -- headache, bellyache, lethargy ... it is awful and not really worth it.  But you still do it again and again.  Today, I was sweating like crazy all afternoon, and it was so salty that it stung my eyes.  Sweating out all of the town stop toxins.  I didn't start to feel good again until tonight.  It is good to be back on the trail again.

We found another gymnast, Totem,
and Kindergarten Cop set us up
in a tripod!

And, to make matters better, Kindergarten Cop caught us and is hiking with us!  On purpose this time around.  We are tackling the Sierras together.  It has been a couple of weeks, and we all missed each other's company.  We have our guard dog back, and I have my let's-ponder-the-world-and-swap-stories friend back.  We chatted away the whole 10 miles.  And I learned the story of his pulling over John Travolta (sp?), among other tales.  We are all three very happy to be reunited.

Speaking of stories, it is night, but the five guys, "the Canadians," just passed.  They are pushing on to 714, but they stopped for a snack and a story.  I put on my park ranger hat and shared the story of how the owl got big eyes for them.  I don't know that it was what they initially had in mind, but it was fun in a terribly nerdy way.  I am sure it will happen again.  Just as they'll jungle call us, and I'll coyote howl in return.  (We had the real coyotes going with our howls the other night.  :)  I am a big fan of these guys.

A good day with a medium beginning as I worked off the town time and a great end as everything begins to fall in place again.  I am thrilled to be back in the saddle again. 

I couldn't be happier to be back on the trail and off to the Sierras.

Day 47 & 48: Hello, Sierras!

(Mile 689 to 702.5, Kennedy Meadows = 13.5 miles & a zero!)

Well, we've made it.  Over 700 miles.  More than twenty-five percent finished.  We've reached Kennedy Meadows, the gateway to the Sierras.  We are thrilled!

Tonight, we are tucked in the spare room of one of the locals.  John met us at the Kennedy Meadows General Store (the hub of town, population 200) and invited us to stay at his place -- a gorgeous mountain cabin complete with two dogs and two fantastic cats.  Yes, cats.  Teenage cats.  Mike and Suzie.  Sister and brother.  Total trouble-makers and as friendly as can be.  I love them.  And, I have to say, I kind of love Kennedy Meadows.

Entering the Sierras!

The store is wonderful.  They have a little bit of everything for hikers -- a washing machine and clothes line, two outdoor showers, a small grill, a huge wraparound deck just made for meeting, greeting, and hanging out for all hours, a television, a mail room, a camping area, and all of the resupply basics.  The owners are also incredibly nice.  Even though 500+ of us have already been through, and we must be driving them crazy by now.

Meet Mike. I love him.

I would have hung out at the store all day, but instead, I followed an invitation, and went to the local fire department training for most of the afternoon.  I met a few guys on the department last night and told them that they reminded me if the men on the rural fire department that I volunteer with in Oregon.  They do Saturday trainings and offered to bring me along.  I decided what the heck, and went.  We did ladder training and wildland fire training.  It was long and hot, but well worth it.  They are good people.  And I feel like I understand this place a bit better having spent time with them.  And after the training, I saw all of them again on the store deck for the Saturday night potluck.  Locals bring dishes and eat first; hikers donate five bucks and gladly eat real food second.  Like I said, this place is growing on me.  Did I mention it is all off the grid?  Everyone.  Talk about a town that could steal my heart.

And, I went to the local fire department meeting! Thanks, guys!

Tomorrow, we head out.  With our 40-pound packs with bear canisters and 9 days of food.  And with Kindergarten Cop!  He's hiking the Sierras with us.  I couldn't be happier.  It has been a great start to this second phase of the trip.

Day 46: Checkin' In: Walking Into the Self

(Mile 668.5 to 689 = 20.5 miles)

It is the little things that capture your
attention after awhile - like these
crusty pioneers.

So, as promised, a follow-up with a mental check-in ...

Overall, I am doing well (despite the fact that the solitude nearly made me crazy those final days in the desert.)  I have been consistently happy out here and feel rather content.  I'd like to see people back home, and I wouldn't mind being clean, but I really feel no pull to be there right now.  I don't belong there just yet.  I do belong out here.  Every day I still get that overwhelming feeling of fullness, vitality -- that falling in love feeling where it seems as if your chest might burst you're so wildly happy.

I did spend some time these past few days seeing how I was progressing with the things I had set out to work on out here.  There are two future-oriented items I had wanted to just put in the back of my mind to let roll around.  Away from the commotion of the regular world, in a new setting, and with plenty of solitude, the Trail is a good time to test your gut reactions.  I'm looking for some feedback on family and career. 

I never have made the final call on whether or not I'd want a family, and at 34, there isn't much more time left to decide.  I'm mostly waiting for my gut to help me out on that one; though I am making a point to talk to new friends about it.  As for the career, I've been pretty sure I am on the right path, and a quick check with the gut confirms it.  I love being a park ranger -- I love teaching, working with all ages, working with and in the outdoors, responding to occasional emergencies, and having a job that responds to the seasons.  What remains is, "What's next?"  I do not have an answer for this yet; but I know a change of some sort is in my future.  Journeys like these leave you a different person.  I trust it will transfer over into work life as well.  And I am excited about the possibilities.

Trail magic always improves the quality of a day!

In addition to the gut decisions, I headed out here with a couple of other things to work on more actively.  Since about the age of nineteen, I have been working on getting to know and understand myself -- strengths, weaknesses, tendencies, etc.  It has been a long and interesting journey.  And, of course, one that is never over.  Part of the reason I am out here is to continue this work.  The stresses of this trek along with copious time for thinking and the meditative, healing ways of nature make for a grand opportunity for self-improvement.

Whatever happens during the day, they almost always end
on a good note.

I am working on two things:  1) Balancing my driver, perfectionist, serious ways with a bit more lightheartedness.  This is a challenge for me.  I tend to go one way or the other.  And I like the driver, perfectionist, serious side of me -- that's who planned this trip, afterall!  But, that side can create quite a burden, and my pack is heavy enough already.  I am sure I will always struggle with this, but I do think I can make some progress out here.  There are plenty of curve balls to throw off a planner like myself.  2)  Becoming more self-assured.  Most who meet me might not guess that this is an issue for me.  And I have been working on it since I waited on my first table at Gwen's Restaurant at the tender age of sixteen.  I have come a long way since those days.  And I am happy with where I am.  But I feel that I am on the brink of finally becoming who I am meant to be, living the life I am meant to live.  I want to just break through that last bit that is holding me back.  I don't know how I will accomplish this, but I have a feeling a trip like this might somehow do it.  It is hard to tell, but I do think I am moving forward with these two projects as well.

I'll check in again on all if this in another month or so.  Perhaps after California.  For now, all is well.  Bring on the Sierras!

Day 45: Checkin' In: Delayed!

(Mile 647.5 to 668.5 = 21 miles)

Walker Pass monument. The highlight for hikers? First cell
service in days! (Unless you have Verizon ...)

Well, we're tucked in a ravine next to a creek.  It has been a good day.  Good enough, in fact, that it may have changed my check-in status had I written yesterday.  The day started with fantastic trail magic at the Walker Pass Campground, just four miles in.  It was supposed to be a so-so water source, but instead there were two canopies, two vehicles, and two angels!  I had a bagel with cream cheese, scrambled eggs with cheese and salsa, and a cup of fresh coffee with real milk.  In a real ceramic mug.  And then I topped it off with Oreos and a cream soda.  We filled our waters and got rid of our garbage.  It was wonderful.

Today we officially passed the
quarter of the way marker!

We also met up with other people for the first time in nearly two days.  It is amazing what a little human contact does for the soul!  Sparrow and Barracuda were there as were the five guys -- Snowflake, Cheesecake, Gaiters, Waffles, and Orny (like ornithologist) -- and two other Canadians -- Magellan and Astro.  We'd leapfrogged the guys a couple of times, so it was nice to actually have a chance to talk to them.  And then we bumped into them a few times throughout the day and are camped with them tonight.  They have a good dynamic and are refreshing to be around -- funny, down-to-earth, and interesting.  They're faster than us, but we'll at least catch them again at Kennedy Meadows.  And hopefully again -- they, too, are hares.

Well, it's an hour past hiker midnight and even the guys have gone to bed.  I hate to cut this short (I think about so much more during the day!), but I am exhausted, and typing with my thumbs on a screen the size of a calculator is slow going.  Besides, I want to catch a photo of the guys in their dog pile in the morning.  :)

The guys in their "cuddle puddle." Waffles, Cheesecake, Gaiters,
Orny, and Snowflake. Ridiculously cute.

Day 44: Checkin' In

(Mile 427.5 to 447.5 = 20 miles)

Sunrise over camp. Last sunrise in the desert!

Today might have been the last day of the Southern California desert; we'll hit the Sierra in just a couple of days.  And so, I thought it might be a good day to check in, physically and mentally.  (We'll do physical today, mental tomorrow.  It's pushing hiker midnight!)

Trail blaze - the first I've seen of
this style in California.

Physically, I am doing fairly well.  I am dirty and stinky, but my scalp doesn't itch as much as it used to, and my skin is growing accustomed to the sporadic washing.  My feet seem to be just about done blistering, though the occasional compression blister still appears on my heels.  (Popped one last night -- it feels much better today.)  And my feet do scream in the morning for the first ten minutes of standing.  It's enough to make me want to sit back down.  A shooting pain that I think is a result of other muscles and tendons pulling.  They seem to be responding to massage and stretching the calves.  It's on my radar as a pain of interest. 

Legs feel great.  My left knee is solid; right hurts a bit.  But I rolled my ankle three times the other day trying to look up photos for Taka while talking to him and walking down a rocky road.  Poor choice!  I think the knee is related to the ankle.  Not a real concern yet.

Stomach isn't entirely thrilled with trail food still -- it may never be.  I have exchanged a few foods to see what that does.  Oh, and I swear I am gaining weight.  I lost 5 to 7 right off the bat, but then I switched a medicine, and I think it has me gaining.  I am going to be the only PCT thru-hiker who gains weight.  Sigh.

Goodbye, desert! Hello, forest!

Other than that, all is well.  Energy level is high enough and recovery time fast enough.  I am very happy with my food choices -- I seem to have enough good carbs, fats, and proteins to keep my body going.  All of that researching and number crunching has paid off!  (Although I do have too much food.  I tripled or quadrupled each serving -- a bit much for a gal my size!)  I could use more rest, but seem to be getting just enough to get by.  We're getting fairly strong and somewhat faster.  This week has been a good test.  I do think we're ready for the Sierras!

Trail love from other hikers. These kinds of messages are lifesavers.

(Oh, I'll give you my update on Gumby, too.  Her hip is bothering her a bit because of where her pack sits, and she strained her lower back at the beginning of this section.  The back is improving, the hip still bugs her.  Her knees and feet have the usual pains, but nothing show-stopping.  Overall, she is physically doing well.  This trip is not easy on a body.  We are as good as can be expected!)

Day 43: No Man's Land

(Mile 607.5 to 627.5 = 20 miles)

Lizard stake.

Well, we hit desert again.  I suppose I would have known this had I looked ahead at the map; but I generally take each day as a surprise.  And surprised I was.  We spent most of the day roasting in the sun.  And I spent most of the morning trying to clear my head of "country girl, shake it for me girl, shake it for me girl, shake it for me."  Yes, seriously.  (It's one if our Jazzercise tunes!)  It was a hard, lonely day.

We catch up by jogging down hills.

The day was made hard by a slow, somewhat frustrating morning that started a little later than normal and was broken up by frequent stops for water and chores.  By noon we only had 7.5 miles in.  (12 by noon is great; 10 by noon is solid; 7.5 by noon is disconcerting.)  And by noon we realized we would be in the heat all day tackling rolling, shadeless, monotonous terrain.  Did I mention we had to carry water for 28 miles?  Ugh.  And then there was that country song and my dead mp3 player and PowerMonkey on the fritz.  

Going to miss the desert colors.

The day was made lonely by only seeing Shutterburst once for about 2 minutes all day.  We did not see another hiker on the trail today.  We read the register, and there is a crew of folks ahead of us, and Shutterburst said yesterday that there were about 20 camped at the water stop behind us.  But today, we saw practically no one.  And then there was that country song.

I love these desert sunsets.

Fortunately, Gumby charged my mp3 player at an afternoon break, and I was able to clear my head for awhile.  And the heat broke as dusk rolled in and gave us another brilliant desert sunset.  We are now camped on a ridge behind a juniper.  The perfect temperature and the perfect amount of wind.  (I've found that I sleep better in the wind.)  We were able to pull off 20 miles despite our morning.  The day ended well.  I looked ahead, and we should get a break from the desert tomorrow.  And, if my calculations are right and all is well for him, Kindergarten Cop should be catching up any day now.  Did I mention bright pink is my new favorite color?  Sigh.  Way too much time alone! 

Freakish hand tan - that's for you, Mel!